New here and scared for my furry baby...

[UP!]

Hello, new here and so undeniably grateful to find such a forum as this. I've had many creatures over the years, mostly guinea pigs (bred them too) but this is the first time I've ever lived with a rat. So now I have a rat, and his name is "Up!" (care of my four year old).

I've had Up for about two months. He was just an itty bitty thing when we got him and he's growing so fast. I crocheted him a hammock and he's quickly outgrowing it! Well, I noticed that he sneezes a tad when we are with him, like in the room or when I hold him. Not repeatedly, but I'm nervous about it all the same. Someone told me that some rats sneeze as a greeting?? If that's true, Up has more manners than my husband :roll:

Yesterday when I took Up out, I noticed that he had some blood where his penis should be. I've never seen his penis but he sure has big... ummm... golliwogs so I know it's in there somewhere. But the blood terrifies me. I think I've found a vet in the Oakville area that knows exotics, but here is my question: What could this possibly be? How do I know the vet knows what he/she is talking about? Are rats susceptible to peeing blood? Have I fed him something bad?? I did give him a big piece of broccoli (yikes was that smelly poop) and he eats a few cheerios every day... is that bad? He's on rat chow... that big pelleted stuff. I hope I'm not hurting him but I do love him so.

I so appreciate any advice you can give... thank you

 

[UP!]

I just realized that I posted this in the wrong area... oops

 

[SQ]

Rats do not sneeze as a greeting.
Could be allergies, a strong odor irritating him, or he could have a respitory infection.

Blood might be from a urinary tract infection or an injury. He will probably be put on antibiotics such as clavamox.
Are you sure it was blood? Any injuries?

If you find out his weight and the strength of the meds you are given for him, we will be able to double check the dosage.
You can check the ER section to see if anyone has recomended a vet in your area.

btw, rats are social and need to live with at least one same sex friend so you will need to get another baby boy.
There are a lot of rescues in need of good homes.

good luck with your vet appointment

 

[hprats]

Also, are you sure it's blood? It might seem like a stupid question, but if your boy is cleaning his penis or sitting in a certain position, it will come out and pretty much look just like a drop of blood.

Honestly, I've had rats for a while now, and I've had 6, so I know what to expect, but today I saw one of my boys cleaning his penis and I thought for a second it was blood...

 

[jorats]

Welcome,
It sounds like your little guy might need a vet check up. Sneezing is not normal, but it is normal when they are new in the home. We call it new home sneezes. How long have you had him?
The blood around the penis is also not normal but like it was asked, are you sure it was blood? Some rats have a little bit of red near the penis/on the sheath but it's not blood.
Rats can definitely get bladder infections. Your vet should do a through exam, palpate the rat and take into account what you say, the sneezing and the red on the penis. He will have a good listen to the lungs to make sure it's clear. Rats are extremely prone to lung infections.

 

[UP!]

Thank you for your replies and thank you Jorats for your welcome.

It was definitely blood, though I haven't seen it since (no injuries either, I can't imagine how he would be injured). When I picked him up it was liquid and bright red. It scared me. I'm calling the vet today to make an appointment. He's also not hanging out on his hammock like he usually does to watch the goings on. His cage has a bad odour though I just cleaned him a few days ago, though it may be still from the broccoli I gave him.

Once again, I appreciate your responses.

 

[UP!]

Jorats, we've had up for about two months

 

[lilspaz68]

Yep not new home sneezies and sounds like a possible UTI (urinary tract infection) which is easily fixable with antibiotics. Definitely vet time. :thumbup:

Welcome to the Shack

 

[UP!]

Well, I took Up to the vet (looked at the vet database, went to Burloak Animal Clinic on Lakeshore in Oakville) and I'm so happy that's he's okay. No blood on his penis (I guess I caught him having an intimate moment). His heart and his lungs sound good. The only thing Dr. Roberts noticed was an orangey-red discolouring of his skin on his back. At first she said it didn't look like anything bad and to just watch it (no bald patches, no scratching). She left and came back to say another vet said he's seen lice present with yellow skin. I told her the skin isn't yellow, it's orangey-red. She recommended that we do a scrape and possible injection for lice. I told her I would watch him and come back if I see it getting worse or if he scratches lots.

I wasn't really confident she knew what she was doing, and she seemed rather pushy about getting him tested and giving him injections when moments earlier she seemed so unconcerned.

Anyway, just wanted to let you guys know since you were kind enough to give me some advice.

 

[jorats]

Sounds like he's got a lot of sebum which would make him older, over 7 months old. Does that seem about right to you?

 

[hopefloats]

If it is a boy it is buck grease or sebum? That is typical of all males. May need a new vet

 

[breakthenight]

How old is up? Orange skin on the back, haunches and above the tail of a male rat who is over five months is very normal. It's something called "Buck grease" that an un-neutered male develops as he becomes sexually mature and is completely normal.

What kind of bedding are you keeping Up on? If he doesn't have an infection, he might be sneezing because the bedding irritates his airways. Rats can not be kept on pine or cedar bedding for example, because they have sensitive lungs.

I don't really like the sounds of your vet though... Doesn't sound particularly knowledgeable about rats...

Echoing what others have said... Rats really do better with a same sex friend.

Welcome to the forum!!!!

 

[UP!]

Excuse me? I paid $91 for a vet who doesn't know something that is completely normal about a male rat? Oh, that makes me quite mad. He might be five months... my guess was that he was four. We haven't had him too long and he was just a wee thing when we got him. Oh I'm so mad. I'm really glad too that this is normal. He also had some loose poop again yesterday (someone remind me to never give him big chunks of broccoli ever again) so I gave him a bath because he smelled something fierce. I just put him in some warm water (I'm not in his good books currently) and used the hair dryer to blow him dry in a towel. His bum is clean today and he's exploring and moving around like crazy. He's so cute. I'm so mad.

How do I introduce a new male? Won't they fight???

 

[Bundyrats]

Hmmm...yes I have to agree...maybe time for a new vet. I've never had boys but even I know about buck grease...
If your vet is unsure well....that's quite a concern..

 

[Aida]

Excuse me? I paid $91 for a vet who doesn't know something that is completely normal about a male rat? Oh, that makes me quite mad. He might be five months... my guess was that he was four. We haven't had him too long and he was just a wee thing when we got him. Oh I'm so mad. I'm really glad too that this is normal. He also had some loose poop again yesterday (someone remind me to never give him big chunks of broccoli ever again) so I gave him a bath because he smelled something fierce. I just put him in some warm water (I'm not in his good books currently) and used the hair dryer to blow him dry in a towel. His bum is clean today and he's exploring and moving around like crazy. He's so cute. I'm so mad.

How do I introduce a new male? Won't they fight???

Welcome to the shack!

Rats are usually adults and full-grown at 5 months, so by then, it's really hard to tell how old they really are.

Introducing rats really depends on the rats. I've had two pairs that didn't fight AT ALL, and one that took me about a week to introduce completely. As he is now sexually mature, it may be a bit harder if he feels the need to prove his dominance. If the second rat does, too, then they might fight a bit, or a lot and you will have to neuter, or not at all. Try to get a calm, non-tempermental rat, or a youngster(if the rat is younger, Up won't feel that his status is threatened). However, after proper introductions, rats very rarely fight except for play-fighting and spiffs over the pecking order(rats have a pack-like rating system in their "herd" like wolfs. There is the alpha, and then one after him, so on), but this rarely leads to blood loss unless something changes(one reaches sexual maturity, etc.).

 

[SQ]

Yeah .... buck grease ...
btw, knowledgeable vets do not normally do skin scrapings on rats, certainly not to see if a rat has lice.
Time for a new vet. Dr Munn in the GTA is highly recommended by people in Ontario.

I would suggest you purchase a copy of the Rat Health Care book from the book section at www.ratfanclub.org
It is a valuable resource and costs less then $10. Ignore or scribble out the page on home euthanasia as it is inhumane.

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If at least one of the rats is over 3 months you will need to gradually introduce them.
(Rats under 3 months see new rats as playmates so if all rats are under 3 months, intro steps are not needed)
The following are the established, gradual steps for introducing rats.
The pace at which you move through them depends on your rats.

1. Usually people quarantine new rats for 2 weeks if they aren't able to do a proper quarantine. It is 4 weeks for a proper quarantine with a different air supply, etc. You may want to read up on quarantines and also the thread about the importance of a proper quarantine. You just need to be aware of precautions to take and what the risks are if you do not take them. If a new rat comes from a source you trust or has been in a home where it was basically quarantined, many people take a calculated risk and do not quarantine once the new rat has been found to be healthy and parasite free.

2. To get ratties used to one another you put cages near each other but far enough apart that they can not reach. You exchange dirty cloths from one cage to another and put rats in one another's cages when the occupant is not home. This is usually done over a one or two week period, sometimes longer depending on the rats. Sometimes it goes much faster, depending on the ratties.

3. When they are no longer showing signs of aggression toward the unfamiliar rat, then you do intros in neutral territory. I would suggest you put the plug in the tub, put a fleece blanket in the bottom of the tub and put in a dish of yummy food such as yogurt.
Then add rats and watch.

4. When rats have been able to be together in a neutral place for 20 to 30 minutes or longer, without any signs of aggression on a number of occasions, you repeat this in a non neutral area such as the play area.

5. When rats have been together repeated times in a non neutral area without any sign of aggression they are ready to live together.

6. You take the large cage they will live in and completely wash it out so it doesn't smell like anyone. You rearrange the items in the cage as well. You don't want ratties thinking they need to defend their territory. Some people suggest having the cage empty except for a plate with yummy food and gradually adding items over the next few hours. You put in a plate of yummy food. Sit back and keep an eye on them for the next 8 to 12 hours or so.

Each step usually takes a week, but with some rats it can go much faster, or much slower.
There are two other steps for rats that are very aggressive toward one another but they are not normally needed.
In general, neutered boys are easier to introduce then unneutered.

*** If at any stage ratties show signs of aggression (puffiness, snorting, backing rear end into other rattie, etc) then you go back a step as they were not ready yet.
A bit of aggression is normal and they will pin and power groom but there should be no blood.

 

[SQ]

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[SQ]

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